The History of the Weejun

Maine’s G.H. Bass & Co. introduced the Bass Weejun in 1936. The name Weejun is a derivation of Norwegian; the loafer was inspired by moccasins made by Norwegian fishermen in their off-season. The moccasins were discovered after World War I by American and European travelers, and then promoted by Esquire magazine. The most distinctive addition made by Bass was a strip of leather with the now-famous diamond-shaped cutout.


In the 1950s this style of loafer became a staple of the Ivy League style of men’s dress that developed on college campuses. The Weejun was dubbed the “penny loafer” when those students made a fashion statement by placing pennies in the diamond-shaped cutout. Since then they have been worn by the likes of John F. Kennedy, James Dean and Michael Jackson. They are still popular with those who favor the “American Trad” style of dress.

The classic Weejun penny loafer is still available today. Bass has also recently released an updated version of the Weejun called the Dover. According to the Bass website, it is a derivative of the original with a “slimmer profile and modern lines.”

Russell Moccasin

My favorite pair of casual boots are the pictured Chukka Hikers that I had custom made a few years ago by the Russell Moccasin Company.  The company has been hand crafting hunting-inspired boots in Berlin, Wisconsin, for over one hundred years.  They offer a wide variety of moccasin-style boots and shoes in an array of different leathers and finishes along with many custom options.  They can even craft boots and shoes out of your own game hides.

To order a pair of custom boots or shoes from the Russell Moccasin Company, you must provide careful tracings of your feet along with ten different measurements of each foot.  Deatiled instructions are provided on their website and in their print catalog.  Once you submit your tracings and measurements, they keep them on file for ten years so that you may easily order additional pairs of footware.

My feet are wide at the ball, but narrow at the heel.  Because of this oddity I often find off-the-rack shoes to be uncomfortable.  Because my Russell Moccasin Chukka Hikers were made to the shape of my foot, fit and comfort are not an issue.  And that is the beauty of custom-made footware. 

Alden Tassel Loafers

This week I picked up a new pair of Alden tassel loafers on clearance at David Lindsey Clothier.  The shoes should pair well with charcoal trousers and an odd jacket.  Although I have seen some men do it, I do not intend to wear these tassel loafers with a suit; loafers are for loafing.

When you get a new pair of dress shoes I would recommend a light protective polish before you wear them the first time.  Use cedar shoe trees between wearings to maintain the shape of the shoe, help prevent cracking and creasing, and absorb moisture from the lining.  By the same token, rotate your shoes and do not wear the same pair on successive days.  If you follow this advice a pair of high quality shoes such as these may last for decades.

Gray Flannel with Green Socks

The standard advice is that your socks should match your trousers.  This practice creates an uninterrupted visual line from your waist to your shoes, thereby giving the impression of a longer leg.  However, there is nothing wrong with wearing more interesting socks.  Many British gentlemen wear sober clothing with bright socks.  I discusssed in a previous post about how the interplay among shoes, socks and trousers can be a source of gratification for the wearer; colorful socks may add to this combination.

The photograph above illustrates my point.  Today I am wearing gray flannel pants, musk green Marcoliani socks and Alden brown suede monk strap shoes.  You can see how well the green coordinates with the gray.  The texture of the brown suede also balances nicely with the heavy flannel of the trousers.  Above the waist I have on a navy camel hair blazer, a blue Oxford cloth button-down shirt, a blue micro-check pocket square, and a paisley tie in fall colors of rust, green, navy, tan and brown.

Marcoliani Socks from Kabbaz Kelly

I received a package in the mail yesterday from Kabbaz Kelly.  I was frankly shocked to discover its arrival because I had placed my order only two days earlier.  The package contained six pair of Marcoliani over-the-calf Merino wool socks (Kabbaz Kelly gives a discount on the purchase of six or more pair).

This was my first experience with Kabbaz Kelly.  I was thouroughly impressed.  Not only was the delivery time quicker than expected, but the packaging was also attractive.  The socks, bound with a burgundy ribbon, were packaged in a ziplock bag with a cedar ball.  The ziplock bag was then encased in gold tissue paper.  A complimentary tape measure was included in the box.  None of those little touches were necessary, but it added to the experience.  Kudos to Kabbaz Kelly.

I have not had the opportunity to wear a pair of the socks.  I will share my impressions of them in a future post.

Shell Cordovan Jump Boots

I recently pre-ordered a pair of Alden shell cordovan boots offered exclusively by Leather Soul in Hawaii.  The boots are modeled after WWII U.S. Army parachutist jump boots.  Because of their somewhat casual styling, I think they will go great with dark jeans or grey flannels on cold, rainy days.

This is the first time I have dealt with Leather Soul so I am unable at this point to recommend or comment on their service.  The boots are not due until March so I will wait until then to comment.

I do own several pair of Alden shoes and would recommend them highly.  The Alden Shoe Company was founded in 1884 in Middleborough, Massachusetts.  Their shoes are constructed with Goodyear welts that provide a strong attach point for repeated replacement of the sole.  With proper care their shoes may last a lifetime.  Their construction also provides superior comfort for a dress shoe; in a pair of Alden shoes I spend all day on my feet in a courtroom without discomfort. 

Alden's shell cordovan shoes are constructed from genuine Horween shell cordovan.  Shell cordovan is leather made from the fibrous flat muscle beneath the hide on the rump of a horse.  Each horse provides two shells, or circular sheets of leather.  A labor-intensive six month tanning process produces a smooth, pliable and extremely durable leather that is used almost exclusively in the manufacture of shoes.  Because of this handiwork, shell cordovan comes at a premium; however, in my humble opinion, it is worth the investment.