Reader Question

Why did you quit writing?

I didn't.

Okay, I've been pretty slack lately about putting up any posts here at ASG.  Most of my creative energy has been focused into my weekly column at Men's Flair.  It has been suggested that I publish those same articles here at ASG (as I have done with a handful of those articles in the past).  I'll probably get around to that at some point.  Nevertheless, I've decided to do better about posting unique content here at ASG.  Lately I've been snapping photographs of interesting outfits on store mannequins.  I find that they provide good sartorial inspiration.  So, at the least, I plan to occasionally post those pictures.  In the meantime, please follow my column at Men's Flair.

Reader Question: Tie Cleaning

Where should one send a tie to be professionally cleaned?

Although I have never used their service, it appears from a search of the online style forums that Tiecrafters is the consensus favorite.  Their tie cleaning service is $10.50 per tie, with a four tie minimum.

By no means should you take a tie to your local dry cleaner.  Your neighborhood cleaner is probably clueless about how to properly clean a tie.  They would likely press the tie, causing the rolled edges to be cruelly flattened and possibily even damaging the silk.

Reader Question

What does it mean if a suit jacket is fused?

Suit coats have a layer of cloth between the outer fabric and the inner silk lining that helps give the jacket its shape.  On higher quality jackets this layer of cloth is a floating canvas shell made of horsehair combined with other materials.  On lower quality jackets the canvas is replaced with much cheaper fusing.  Fusing is a synthetic material that essentially turns to glue when heated.  Because the fabric is glued together the jacket will not drape as elegantly as one with a canvas shell.  A bigger problem with fusing is the potentially disastrous effect of dry cleaning on the jacket.  If you have ever seen someone wearing a jacket where the fabric looked "bubbled," then you have witnessed the unwelcome result of dry cleaning on a fused coat.

Reader Question

Can you recommend an online resource for affordable pocket squares?

Pocket handkerchiefs are widely available online in the twelve to thirty-five dollar range from suppliers like The Tie Bar, Southern Proper, Howard Yount, Kent Wang and Sam Hober.  Pricer squares may be found at Ben Silver, Paul Stuart and Mariano Rubinacci.

Reader Questions: Women's Attire

What do you think of women wearing jackets with pocket squares?

I don't see anything wrong with a woman wearing a pocket square, assuming that her tailored jacket has a breast pocket in which to display it.  Imagine a winter outfit consisting of a slim-fitting tweed tailored jacket, light blue blouse, charcoal skirt, brown heels and a silk paisley pocket square.  I think that would look pretty sharp.  An alternative to the pocket square is a silk scarf around the neck.  However, I would go with one or the other; a scarf and a pocket square together might be a bit much.

Have you ever considered writing another blog called A Southern Lady?

I certainly pay attention when I see an attractive woman in beautiful clothes.  And I have female friends who love to drag me out clothes shopping because I'm not afraid to tell them when an outfit looks atrocious.  But I don't pretend to be much of an authority on women's attire.  Instead of starting another blog, I might recruit some of the sharply-dressed Southern ladies around me to author guest posts on topics of interest to my female readers.  If anyone has an idea for a topic they would like to see covered in a guest post, send me a message at the blog email address listed in the sidebar, or post a comment below.

Reader Question: Rock Concert Attire

I dress fairly conservatively.  With that being said, I am planning to attend a rock concert soon and do not wish to look like a fish out of water.  By the same token, I don't want to wear the classic "band t-shirt" or any other type of clothing that is normally associated with fans.  How can I keep my style and look "cool" at the same time?

The typical rock concert uniform includes jeans, a black concert tee and black boots or Converse All-Stars.  To keep from looking out of place I would use that uniform as a starting place but make it more stylish by elevating each element.  Consider dark jeans or trim flat-front charcoal pants.  Instead of a concert tee, consider a black button-down shirt or a thin black merino-wool sweater.  Instead of sneakers, consider a pair of black dress ankle boots.  You could top it off with a black leather jacket; a dark blue or purple velvet jacket would be even better.

A rock concert provides you an opportunity to wear accessories that you might otherwise avoid.  I have a black leather belt with a chunky eagle's-head buckle that I got off eBay that I only wear to concerts.  A friend of mine has a wild pair of Mark Nason shoes similar to the boots pictured above that he wears to concerts.  When it comes to accessorizing, be guided by your own sense of style.

I would caution you to avoid wearing any item of apparel that is prone to stain or that you consider to be a favorite.  At a rock concert you are very likely to encounter beer, sweat, vomit, blood and urine.  You will not enjoy yourself if you are worried the whole time about the drunk next to you spilling his beer on your suede jacket.

Reader Questions

Should I mix stripes in the same outfit?

It is perfectly acceptable to mix patterns.  In a tailored wardrobe you may introduce pattern in the suit, shirt, tie or pocket square.  While it is possible (and quite challenging) to successfully display pattern in all four articles at once, I would recommend that style novices choose solids in at least two of the four.

When mixing patterns of the same design you should vary the size of the pattern.  As an example, compare the narrow stripes of Cary Grant's shirt with the wide block stripes of his tie.  Similarly, one could pair a window-pane suit and a tie with small checks.  On the other hand, to harmonize two contrasting patterns (i.e., a striped suit worn with a check dress shirt) the two patterns should be kept close in size.

You have used the term bespoke in several of your recent posts.  What does bespoke mean?

Bespoke is a British term, used historically in relation to tailored clothing, that means custom-made, or made to individual order.  The word derives from the verb bespeak that means to ask for in advance.  Bespoke clothing is traditionally cut from a unique pattern made from an individual's measurements and specifications.  In contrast, ready-to-wear or off-the-rack clothing is mass produced in standardized sizes.  Obviously bespoke clothing will fit an individual much better because it is made to his precise measurements.  Having clothing custom-made also provides the individual the opportunity to bespeak the fabrics or details that he may desire.  As you might imagine, this customization comes at a premium.