Tom James Blazer

Tom James finally got my pants sorted out and offered me a twenty-percent discount on a blazer for my trouble so I met today with my tailor to pin down the details.  I elected to go with a warm-weather version in navy hopsack with a navy lining.  I specified that the jacket should be double-breasted in a 4-on-2 buttoning stance.  I chose quite plain antique silver buttons.  The sleeves will have functioning button holes.  The blazer will sport peak lapels, side vents and patch pockets.

Nicholas Antongiavanni in The Suit notes that "the classic blazer is double-breasted, with four instead of six buttons (arranged like a square, so that two can actually button), side vents, and patch pockets, to reflect its naval origins. ...  It's shade should be a little lighter than suiting navy, and its weave a little more textured."  He also advises that a true blazer should have simple metal buttons in brass, silver or gold.  The jacket that I have ordered is in keeping with this classic style.

Antongiavanni warns against the "ubiquitous worsted, two-button, center-vented version; for since odd jackets afford you the chance to wear many stylish details that cannot be worn on suits, it is not reasonable to forgo these in favor of one that looks all but identical to a run-of-the-mill suit jacket."  The problem with buying an off-the-rack navy "blazer" is that the vast majority you will find are of this common and vulgar variety.  My Tom James tailor commented to me today that what I ordered was both classically stylish and commercially unavailable.  It is unsettling and disturbing to me that the mainstream offerings in menswear stores are so bland and tasteless.  It makes absolutely no sense to me that the most classically-styled odd jackets, like the double-breasted navy blazer, are unavailable to the masses.  Unfortunately, the only alternative is to do what I did today and have one made.

The jacket should be here in about six weeks for a first fitting and I will post an update and some pictures at that time.

The Classic Blazer

It is a linguistic error to refer to all odd jackets as blazers.  A blazer is a specific type of odd jacket characterized by details, such as metal buttons, that are steeped in naval heritage.  In its most classic form, the blazer is double-breasted, with metal buttons in a 4-on-2 stance, peak lapels, side vents and patch pockets.  The fabric is coarse, such as flannel (for cool weather) or hopsack (for warm), and blue in a shade slightly lighter than navy.  The buttons are traditionally brass or gold, but men with gray hair or who intend to wear the jacket with gray trousers may instead opt for silver or nickel.  A dressier, yet still classic, version of the blazer is often seen in worsted wool, with buttons in a 6-on-2 stance (like the drawing above) and flap pockets.  In either variation the combination of double-breasted blazer and odd trousers is less dressy than a lounge suit, but more dressy than a sport coat and trousers.

Ralph Lauren Odd Jacket

My biggest purchase during the long weekend in Charleston was a Ralph Lauren odd jacket that I bought at Grady-Ervin & Co. on King Street.  The jacket is a black and white herringbone tweed with four bellows pockets and brown suede elbow patches.

I'm thinking this new jacket will work well with jeans and a sweater on the weekend, or maybe even dressed up for the office with gray flannel pants, sweater and tie, and brown suede shoes. I left the jacket in Charleston for a few alterations - shortened sleeves, an inch out of the waist, and a nip from the back of the collar. It should arrive via UPS next week. I'll post some follow-up pictures once I've had a chance to accessorize.