The Continuing Saga of the Tom James Trousers

My Tom James tailor arrived at my office first thing this morning for another fitting of the gray trousers with the protruding pockets.  He took additional measurements as well as several photographs of the offending problem areas.  He promises to return with the altered pants in a week to ten days so that he can ensure they fit perfectly.

I have had a hankering lately for a double-breasted blue blazer with peak lapels, flap pockets, and matte silver buttons.  We chatted a bit about looking at fabrics and buttons on his next visit, and he offered a twenty percent discount on the blazer to make up for the trouble I've had with the pants.  Although I'm still waiting for the pants to be right, I can't argue with their customer service.  More later on the pants (and the blazer).

Tom James Customer Service

Well I'm impressed.  Within 18 hours of my last post, I received an email from the Vice-President of Retail Operations for the Tom James Company who wished to ensure that I am satisfied and that my fit issues are addressed.  Since then I have received a call and a follow-up email from my local Tom James representative who assures me that the problem can and will be fixed.  I am encouraged.  More to follow on this ongoing trouser saga.

Details of Tom James Pants

My altered Tom James pants arrived at the office a couple of weeks ago.  I'm now getting around to providing a few detail shots.  As you may see, the trousers are partially lined.  The label sewn under the hem at the bottom of the leg is an interesting detail.

On the whole I am pleased with the fabric and construction.  I would be completely satisfied if the pants fit properly.  And arguably fit is the biggest reason for going bespoke.  I have a nice pair of off-the-rack Hiltl pants that still fit better than these Tom James pants that were supposed to be made to my exact measurements.  The alterations did not completely solve the fit issue across the front of my thighs so the pockets are still pulling slightly open.

I do not intend to contact Tom James about the fit issues.  It's been a couple of weeks since the altered pants arrived via post at my office and there have been no follow-up calls from my Tom James representative to inquire whether the alterations were successful.  I won't call becuse I'm curious to test their level of customer service;  to see if or when I am contacted about the fit and what if any remedy may be offered.

Tom James Update

I met with my representative from Tom James today to take delivery of my new gray pants.  Unfortunately I did not have much opportunity to inspect them because they did not fit properly.  The waist, rise and inseam were fine, but they were so tight through my thighs that the pockets stuck out like Dumbo's ears.  Their plan is to let out the seat by an inch (I'm not sure why this was necessary since they were supposedly tailored to my measurements) and then ship the pants to me next week.  I will provide a full review when I have the pants in hand.

To Cuff or Not to Cuff?

Some men espouse a rule that pleated pants should have cuffs and that flat-front trousers should remain uncuffed.  I do not believe that such a strict rule exists; whether to cuff your pants is more a matter of personal style and preference. 

There are some practical considerations that one should contemplate when deciding whether to cuff a pair of pants.  Cuffs are appropriate on odd trousers to be worn with blazers and sport jackets.  They are equally appropriate on suit pants.  However, cuffs are inappropriate for formal wear.

Cuffs add weight to the bottom of the trouser leg; this may help pleats drape more properly.  The extra fabric of cuffs at the bottom of the leg also visually balances the added volume of pleats at the top.  On the other hand, trousers without cuffs look sleeker because the line of the leg remains unbroken.  This fact is especially important for short men.  A horiztonal cuff breaks that long visual line and will make a short man's legs look even shorter.

When it comes to cuffs, the choice is yours.   You really can't make a wrong decision.  But the next time your tailor asks if you want cuffs, give some thoughtful consideration to these factors before making an informed choice based on your own style and preference.  At least then there will be some reason behind the decision.

Tom James

On the referral of a friend, I met yesterday with a representative of Tom James.  Tom James is a company that offers made-to-measure clothing and wardrobe advice.  They claim to be the world's largest manufacturer and retailer of custom clothing.  One of their selling points is that their representatives will come to your home or office to outfit your wardrobe; this may be a draw for men who find shopping inconvenient.

I went into the meeting with an open mind, but armed with some negative preconceived notions about what to expect.  I had researched the company on a number of the style forums that I have previously mentioned in this blog.  Many men have complained on those forums that the representatives from Tom James are high pressure salesmen, not knowledgeable tailors.  Nevertheless I agreed to a meeting out of curiosity.

The Tom James representative arrived at my office at the scheduled time.  While we engaged in some introductory small talk, I examined his attire.  His clothing fit reasonably well, but one negative thing jumped out immediately at me.  The pinstripe of his suit was a repeating pattern of letters spelling out T O M J A M E S T O M J A M E S T O M J A M E S.  That struck me as a bit cheesy and flashy.  On a more minor note, his breast pocket was empty.

The representative asked me some preliminary questions about my wardrobe needs and explained their services.  He highlighted the convenience of their in-office services, and offered to outfit me in everything from underwear to suits.  On the issue of their custom suits, I asked if there would be any fittings during the process.  He looked a bit confused and explained that the factory would make a pattern from the measurements taken in my office and then deliver a finished suit that could be altered if necessary.  If you were to have a suit made by tailor, you should expect several fittings during the process so that any major errors in the pattern may be corrected early in the process.  I'm afraid the method used by Tom James could result in a hot mess.

The representative suggested some packages of suits, shirts and ties.  When I told him that I was not currently in need of shirts or ties he moved on without the expected high pressure sales pitch.  I told him I could use a pair of basic gray pants to wear with navy blazers or tweed jackets.  He produced some fabrics at different price points, but was unable to explain why one set of fabric was better or higher priced than another.

I decided, out of curiosity more than anything, to order one pair of gray flat front trousers.  The representative took four measurements - waist, seat, length and rise.  The only detailing option he offered was whether to add cuffs to the bottom of the legs.

We scheduled a meeting in January for delivery of the pants.  My expectations are not high, but I will be curious to examine the fit and quality of the pants.  I will give an update in January when the pants are complete.