Don't Ruin Your Silhouette

As recently published on Men's Flair:

A silhouette is the outline of a solid object. When applied to male attire it refers to the (hopefully pleasing) outward appearance of a man’s clothed shape. Michael Anton, writing under the pseudonym Nicholas Antongiavanni, very artfully stated in The Suit that “the virtue of tailored clothing is that it improves a man’s rudimentary shape.” Unfortunately many men seem to consistently and unwittingly sabotage the tailor’s effort to create a pleasing silhouette.

The habit of walking around with an unbuttoned jacket is a quite common sartorial sin. An unbuttoned tailored jacket hangs open like a limp dishtowel. Jackets are tailored to accentuate the narrowness of a man’s waist and then flare out at the hips. The button set near the natural waist holds the jacket closed at this narrowest point. To ensure proper drape and a pleasing silhouette one should always, when standing, fasten the top button of a two-button jacket, or the middle button of a three-button jacket.

Many men seem compelled to fill their trouser pockets full of all sorts of paraphernalia. Common lumpy masses include lighters, knives, huge wads of keys and fat wallets stuffed with three-year-old receipts and expired credit cards. Trousers should hang without any lumps or ripples; filling trouser pockets with all of this kit ruins their elongating line.

I hold a special dislike for those clunky, awful belt-worn cell phone holsters. Unless your name is Bruce Wayne, please don’t wear junk hanging from your belt.

So what to do with all of these trappings? The first thing is to pare them down. Clean out your wallet. How many credit cards do you really need to carry in your pocket? Are you really going to use that coupon for a free round of miniature golf? Get rid of the key to that car you sold last year. Do you really visit the safe deposit box often enough that you need to carry the key with you every day?

Once you have separated the wheat from the chaff, you need to decide how to covertly carry the necessities. You might invest in a nice coat wallet (see Andrew Williams’ recent profile of Ettinger of London) and keep it in an inside jacket pocket. I carry a slim iPhone in one inside jacket pocket and three keys (office, home and car) in an outside jacket pocket; these items are completely unobtrusive. If you must carry more than a few bare essentials then put them in a nice leather briefcase. I’m saving my pennies for a Swaine Adeney Brigg document case…

Odd Vests

An odd vest (called a waistcoat by the British) may add an additional layer of warmth and interest to a gentleman's attire.  By adding some protection to an exposed shirtfront, an odd vest will extend the usefulness of a lightweight tailored jacket during cooler weather.  Wearing an odd vest will also allow one the flexibility to remove one's jacket at the office, yet remain looking natty.

Probably the most useful odd vests for wear with worsted suits are ones in solid cream, light-blue and light-gray linen.  For country wear a tattersall vest would be appropriate paired with tweed and flannel.  Tattersall is a checked pattern that originated with horse blankets used at Tattersall's horse market in London in the 18th Century.

 

Odd vests may come in single or double-breasted versions, and with or without lapels.  Double-breasted waistcoats are considered more formal.  When it comes to the details of an odd vest, common wisdom dictates, as expressed by Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man, that "the louder its hue, the quieter its style should be."  Therefore, a tattersall check would be most appropriate in a single-breasted vest.

When wearing a single-breasted vest, one should always leave the bottom button undone.  It is said that this practice developed from imitators of portly King Edward VII whose tailors were unable to keep up with his rapidly expanding waistline.

Today's low-rise pants pose a problem when it comes to wearing odd vests.  One may note from the illustrations that the vest should cover the waistband of the trousers; there should be no visible belt buckle.  Such is a sartorial sin on par with exposed skin at the ankles.  The bulk of a buckle under the vest is also problematic.  The solution is to wear higher-rise trousers with braces.  A side benefit to this practice is that it creates the illusion of a longer leg line.

During these cold winter months, inject a little interest into those navy and charcoal suits.  Wear an odd vest.

The Presidential Fold

There is anecdotal evidence that the Presidential fold of a pocket square got its name around the time that President Harry S. Truman was in office.  The sober Presidential fold (also known as the flat fold) is quite similar to the TV fold in that both reveal a straight narrow strip of fabric above the breast pocket.  While the end results are similar, the execution differs.  As I explained in my last post, the TV fold is done on the diagonal.  In contrast, the Presidential fold is done on the square. 

To execute the Presidential fold simply fold the square into quarters.  Make sure that the hand-rolled edges are at the top and right.  Depending on the size of the hank, it may be necessary to fold the left edge under to make the handkerchief narrow enough to fit into your breast pocket.  Fold the bottom up an appropriate amount to accomodate the depth of the pocket.  Finally, arrange the folded pocket square in your breast pocket so that a straight narrow strip of fabric is revealed.

The TV Fold

There are quite a number of different ways that a man may fold a pocket square before he stuffs it into his breast pocket.  The so-called "TV fold" is one of the more understated (some would say boring) methods of displaying a pocket handkerchief.  The fold's roots can be traced to the pioneering broadcasters of the 40s and 50s.  Above is an early photograph of Walter Cronkite displaying a white linen pocket square folded in this style.

To execute a TV fold first fold the pocket square in quarters.  Then fold the square diagonally to create a triangle.  Fold together the two bottom points of the triangle so that they overlap in the center.  Flip the handkerchief so that the remaining point is facing downward and the smooth side of the hank is facing out.  Arrange the folded handkerchief in your breast pocket so that about a quarter of an inch of straight fabric is visible above the top of the pocket.

To Cuff or Not to Cuff?

Some men espouse a rule that pleated pants should have cuffs and that flat-front trousers should remain uncuffed.  I do not believe that such a strict rule exists; whether to cuff your pants is more a matter of personal style and preference. 

There are some practical considerations that one should contemplate when deciding whether to cuff a pair of pants.  Cuffs are appropriate on odd trousers to be worn with blazers and sport jackets.  They are equally appropriate on suit pants.  However, cuffs are inappropriate for formal wear.

Cuffs add weight to the bottom of the trouser leg; this may help pleats drape more properly.  The extra fabric of cuffs at the bottom of the leg also visually balances the added volume of pleats at the top.  On the other hand, trousers without cuffs look sleeker because the line of the leg remains unbroken.  This fact is especially important for short men.  A horiztonal cuff breaks that long visual line and will make a short man's legs look even shorter.

When it comes to cuffs, the choice is yours.   You really can't make a wrong decision.  But the next time your tailor asks if you want cuffs, give some thoughtful consideration to these factors before making an informed choice based on your own style and preference.  At least then there will be some reason behind the decision.

Black Suit for Business?

Black wool is for formal wear.  Black and white is striking at night, but in the daylight black is too severe for the complexion of most men; suits in blue, gray and brown are much more flattering for the majority of complexions.  Futhermore, dark blue, charcoal and dark brown are a much better accompaniment for the shirts, ties and shoes that a man is likely to wear in a business setting.

The Blue & the Gray

The title of this post does not refer to the 1982 television miniseries about the War of Northern Aggression.  Instead I refer to the classic color combination of gray and blue.  Consider combining a gray suit with a white shirt and blue tie.  A navy suit combined with a light blue shirt and gray tie works equally well.  For the weekend try a dark pair of blue jeans with a light gray cashmere sweater.  When selecting your attire, remember the blue and the gray.

The Propriety of a Monogram

Some men choose to stylishly personalize their bespoke dress shirts with a monogram; however, one must be careful when displaying a monogram to avoid looking pretentious.  Alan Flusser wrote in Dressing the Man that "discretion is paramount to good taste, and large or conspicuously placed initials are indiscreet." 

The monogram should be in small block letters.  To maintain discretion, some men request that the monogram be sewn from thread that matches the shirt so the monogram nearly disappears.  Others may choose a coordinating color, or even a signature color, as an exercise of personal style. 

The most discrete locations for a monogram are inside the yoke or on the tail.  The only person likely to see the monogram is the one who launders the shirt; keep in mind that monograms originally developed as a means of identifying shirts at the laundry.  The most discrete, yet visble, location for a monogram is about five inches above the waist and to the left of the placket.  The location is discrete because a buttoned jacket completely obscures the monogram.  This is the location where I choose to place my monogram.  My personal opinion is that other locations (i.e., breast pocket, collar, and cuff) are stylistically dangerous territory.  Unless you are an auto mechanic, do you really want your name emblazoned across your chest for the whole world to see?  Keep it discrete.  When it comes to monograms, less is definitely more.

Contrast in Texture

Texture is one thing to consider when selecting the day's tie and pocket square combination.  A contrast in texture adds interest to your attire.  If you plan to wear a lustrous silk tie, consider a matte pocket handkerchief like linen or cotton.  It is hard to go wrong with the classic combination of silk tie and white linen pocket square.  On the other hand, the dulled surface of a wool or linen tie benefits from the sheen of a of silk hank.

Pocket Handkerchiefs: Coordinate, Don't Match

Your pocket handkerchief should not match your tie.  Instead, your pocket handkerchief should coordinate with some other element of your attire.  For instance, you may wish to coordinate your pocket handkerchief with a secondary color from your tie or a stripe in your shirt.  A solid colored tie might coordinate with a patterned pocket handkerchief.  You could display a white linen pocket square to complement a contrast collar dress shirt. 

Coordinating a pocket handkerchief with your attire is admittedly a challenge, primarily because there are no hard and fast rules to guide you in the selection; once again, that selection must be an expression of your own personal style.  I encourage you to experiment with your attire.  Display a pocket handkerchief that you believe coordinates well with your outfit and then listen to the comments that you receive, both positive and negative.  Through that experimentation process you may begin to refine your own personal style.  But along the way, keep this advice in mind:  coordinate, don't match.

Sometimes, Always, Never

If you are on your feet, your suit or odd jacket should be buttoned.  If you are wearing a three-button jacket, remember this mantra:  sometimes, always, never.  Sometimes fasten the top button.  Always fasten the middle button.  Never fasten the bottom button.  Sometimes, always, never.

Jackets are tailored to accentuate the narrowness of a man's waist and then flare out at the bottom to his broader hips.  The middle button, set at the natural waist, holds the jacket closed at this narrowest point.  Fastening the bottom button works against the tailoring and ruins the lines of the aforementioned flare.  The fastening of the top button is stylistically optional.  It can be argued that leaving the top button undone helps visually balance the unfastened bottom button.  And some three-button suits are designed so that the lapels roll to the middle button; the top buttons on these jackets should be left unfastened.

The rule for two-button jackets is similar.  One should always button the top button and leave the bottom unfastened.  Of course, there is always an exception to the rule.  JFK was known to wear two-button paddock-style jackets.  The buttons on a paddock-style jacket are set higher than normal, and are both meant to be fastened.  Nevertheless, the aforementioned advice applies to the vast majority of two-button jackets.

Say it with me one last time:  sometimes, always, never.

The Proper Length of a Tie

Standard wisdom dictates that the tip of your tie should hit at the center of the beltline on your trousers.  Any longer and you risk looking like Steve Urkel.  Any shorter and you could be mistaken for one of the Three Stooges.

Ready to wear ties tend to be fifty-five to sixty inches in length.  For the average male most ready to wear ties are the appropriate length to conform to the stated convention.

If you are either very short or very tall, or if you wear high-waisted trousers, then you may need to invest in bespoke ties in order to obtain the proper length.  If you are in need of such services, Sam Hober is a much-praised purveyor of bespoke ties.

The Dimple

I'm am often surprised to notice otherwise well-dressed men who display sloppily-knotted ties.  It appears that they must tie a quick knot, cinch it up roughly and settle for the resulting mess.

Look at these photographs of the current and former leaders of the free world.

These photographs illustrate the sloppy knots that I despise.  In fairness to President Obama, in most of the photographs I have seen of him he has an impeccably knotted tie.  But you would think if you were getting your photo taken for the cover of the Rolling Stone that you could straighten your tie in the mirror.

I am a proponent of the dimple. Notice the photograph from Robert Talbott. See the symmetrical concave cavity below the knot? See how it adds shadow and dimension to the tie? This is the dimple.

To form a dimple in your tie, first tie a loose knot.  Then place your index finger in the center of the tie below the knot.  Using your thumb and middle finger pinch the fabric around your index finger to form the cavity.  Continue to pinch the fabric firmly, but gently, while you tighten the knot with your other hand.  Pay attention to the symmetry of the dimple and avoid any errant folds in the fabric.  You may have to start over several times before you make it look right.  You will find that ties have a memory and will dimple much easier after the first few wearings.

Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man wrote that the "triangular sector formed below the chin by the 'V' opening of a buttoned suit jacket constitutes the cynosure of a man's tailored costume."  The knot of your tie falls squarely in the center of this sector.  Avoid the sloppy knot.  Embrace the dimple.